Formal navy suit for men

Sartorial Guy

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Formal navy suit

This is an example of one of the most formal ways we would wear a suit. It is the type of suit and style that you would wear for formal business meetings or interviews. As we discussed in our article on mens’ suits here, navy (along with charcoal grey) is probably the most appropriate colour for a formal business suit. This type of formal suit will also be useful for events such as weddings or formal dinners where you also want to to look as smart as possible. This article looks at how to style a formal navy suit for men.

Formal navy suit for men

Fabric

The first aspect to consider is the material. This is a pure worsted wool fabric which is beneficial in various ways. The term “worsted” refers to the method of processing the wool fibres during the spinning and weaving process. The fibres are first combed to align them in a parallel fashion, removing shorter fibres and leaving behind longer, finer ones. This creates a smooth and consistent yarn. This yarn is then tightly spun, with further enhances its strength and durability. These fabrics are generally lightweight, have a crisp texture, and drape well. It tends to have a smoother, more refined appearance which makes it ideal for formal suits. It retains its shape, resists wrinkling and has a luxurious feel. 

This fabric has a herringbone weave which adds a bit of visual interest to the suit. It’s quite subtle so does not detract from the overall sober appearance. Pinstripes would be more obvious in appearance but these have a slightly more old-fashioned connotation these days. The colour is a classic navy, on the darker side. The weight is around 13oz which makes it appropriate for most of the year in northern countries. It might be a bit too heavy for tropical climates (where something like a Crispaire or a high twist wool would be better). 

Formal navy suit for men

Design

On to the design. All aspects of this suit are constructed in the classic, formal navy suit for men style. It is more in line with a traditional British suit style, rather than the more casual style of Southern Italian tailors. The shoulders and jacket have a medium amount of padding which helps create the structure of the jacket and enhances the size of the chest and shoulders. This helps create the classic masculine ‘V-shape’ for the torso. The waist of the jacket is also cinched to help achieve this appearance. The shoulders also have some roping where the shoulder meets the top of the sleeve. This also creates a formal, military-like impression. The breast pocket is welted and the waist pockets are flapped. The overall aim is to create clean, uninterrupted lines. The jacket has 2 front buttons and 4 buttons on the sleeve, which a fairly standard style. 

Formal navy suit for men

The trousers have a flat front, side-adjusters and straight cuffs. This type of wool is excellent for maintaining a crease through the leg line. For this type of suit, it’s good for the end of the trousers to just touch the top of the shoes. You don’t want too much ‘break’ in the trousers if they are too long, or to show too much sock if they are too short. 

Accessories

The suit is worn with a narrow white and light blue striped shirt. This is a very subtle stripe which keeps the formality high. The tie is a woven silk burgundy with a small pattern. This type of dark, sober colour harmonises well with the dark suit and means that nothing in particular stands out too much. The shirt collar is a semi-cutaway which provides a decent amount of room for the tie knot and means that the points are hidden under the jacket’s lapels. An additional feature is that this shirt is double-cuffed so it is worn with cufflinks. This is a good opportunity for men to wear jewellery and they go well with this type of smart outfit. 

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